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Sipadan Island is both famous
and infamous. A tiny, tropical forest-covered
island of only thirty acres floating in the royal blue of the Celebes Sea, it
has been declared both a protected area and a bird sanctuary by the Malaysian
government. The
island is indisputably the most famous dive destination in Malaysia, with
diving giants like Jacques Cousteau praising enthusiastically the wonderful
diversity of its marine life.
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Sipadan was at the top of Scuba Diving
magazine’s Gold List for The
Top Dive Destinations of the World, a distinction it shared with two other
destinations known for an equal diversity of their marine life - the Galapagos
Islands and Truk in Micronesia. It is surrounded by a sand and coral shelf
which, at an average distance of a couple of hundred meters out from the shore,
plummets dramatically to drop off down a vertical wall for some eight hundred
meters. Nearby Mabul Island is
similar.
Sipadan
Island is located off the east coast of Sabah, Malaysia's eastern-most state
which lies on the north-eastern corner of the world's third largest island - Borneo Island. Sabah and
another Malaysian state, Sarawak, share Borneo with a neighbour,
Indonesia.
There are eleven popular dive sites around Sipadan, another half-dozen around
Mabu, and two or three at a third nearby destination, Kalapai Island, a
sandbar which completes the triangle, and boasts its own dive resort, so the
choice for diving in the area is extensive.
Not all the sites are of equal appeal,
however. The Kalapai Island sites, for instance, have poor visibility because
of the sandy bottom, as do several around Mabul. These sites are best for
shallow slow dives searching out the abundant macro life. At the top of the
list however, is an
extraordinary Sipadan site, Barracuda Point. If you are lucky, and the water
conditions are right, you will witness here a remarkable vortex of thousands of
Chevron Barracuda swirling like an underwater tornado; hence the name of the
site.
Barracuda
Point is also home to dozens of huge Green Sea Turtles and Hawksbill Turtles
which are completely unfazed by divers and which one can approach very closely. Here too, White Tip Reef Sharks are
common.
On
one dive we saw seven, the big ones swimming out in the blue and the smaller
ones of one to two meters close to the reef wall. Grey Reef Sharks, Scalloped
Hammerheads and Leopard Sharks are also common. On the same dive we
looked out into the blue and saw a Pygmy Devil Ray swimming gracefully past.
Later, near Barracuda point we dropped in
the water again to swim with a school of thousands of silvery Jackfish, or Big
Eye Trevally, twisting and flashing in the aquamarine water. Smaller sea life
includes Bannerfish, Butterflyfish, Angelfish, Cornetfish, Parrotfish, Mandarin
Fish, Sea Horses and Pipefish,Crocodilefish,
Frogfish and Stonefish, Octopus, Eels, Spiny Shrimps and lobsters, Cuttlefish
and huge, brilliant nudibranch.
My
favourite was the Pyramid Butterflyfish, a common, but dramatically beautiful
reef resident mostly seen on small schools of several dozen.
Another colourful resident is the Redfin Anthias, often
seem with more common orange Anthias. This beautiful little fish has a lemon
yellow body with a purplish red dorsal fin, tail and body. The abundance,
colour and variety is amazing.
I saw a school of Yellowback Fusiliers pass
a pair of bright Foxface Rabbitfish dancing an elaborate courtship. Then a
Harlequin Sweetlips Juvenile, all white polka dots and oversized fins,
propelled itself in frantic wriggles under me like an eager puppy.
Beautiful too are the coral gardens which grace the top of the
reef. They are a cornucopia of mauve, deep-purple, lime-green, red and yellow
soft corals. Our trip organizer, Aryani Arshad of Planet Scuba in Kuala Lumpur,
credits Sipadan’s popularity to this abundance of sea-life, the best in the
world. Also, she adds, the shallowness of the coral gardens make them ideal for
snorkelers. It is a macro heaven on earth.
An
unusual dive was under a former oil platform now converted into a dive resort,
Sea Venture, just off the shore of Mabul. The site was rich with Stonefish,
Frogfish and smaller sea life. Most amazing were a pair of paper-thin Razorfish
swimming nose down in a circular hunting pattern. Like many other local sites
there was some current here although surface sea conditions were very calm.
Sipadan can be dived year round because it is not affected by the Monsoon rains
which seasonally close dive sites in western Malaysia, but it is not for
everyone. Occasional strong
currents and the extreme depth and vertiginous nature of Sipadan’s drop-offs
suggest that you should be of
some experience before attempting to dive here.
A
huge benefit of diving Sipadan is the climate. Because of its position,
Sipadan, as well as Mabul and Kalapai, escapes the monsoon rains. The daytime temperature varies between 28 to 34
degrees Celsius; the cooling
sea breezes negate any humidity. Water temperature is a balmy 27 degrees
Celsius which means that a three mil shortie is more than adequate; in fact,
diving without a wet suit is a good option and an enjoyable experience.
Arriving
at the Mabul dive resorts is an adventure in itself. Arrangements, beyond the
plane, are best left to a professional like Aryani of Planet Scuba. The
flight from Kuala Lumpur to Tawau in eastern Sabah takes about two hours and
fifteen minutes. Both Air Malaysia and the cheaper, no frills, Air Asia, fly to
Tawau which boasts a small but attractive and efficient airport. There Aryani
takes over; you will be met and whisked by bus or van to Semporna, a sea-side
town about an hour and fifteen minutes away where you will board a fast boat
propelled by two huge 100 horse power outboards for an hour long cruise to
Mabul.
There a welcoming drink, a comfortable room,
a pleasant shower and a delicious Malaysian meal await you. You will fall in
love with the local people on Mabul, a group of the Bajau Laut who
belong to the world’s only nomadic tribe of sea gypsies. A walk through the village
will bring you many wide smiles and happy greetings from its charming and
beautiful residents. Put
Sipadan on your list of places to visit soon.Believe me, you won’t regret
it
by David Lavoie